1/7/2023 0 Comments Tinkertool sharpness quartz![]() ![]() Planer and jointer knives (before I switched to segmented heads) are best sent out IMHO. It's not like we don't touch up our chisels nearly ever time we use them, right? Remember, this is only one point of view the value is in multiple points of view. While it does an excellent, precision job, it is sooooo sloIf a little needs to be done I can touch up on a stone faster than I can fill the water reservoir let alone set up the arm and jigs. I have to say that the wet sharpener was a waste of money. yes, I actually learned my lesson when the others wore poorly -) I have work out other makes of diamond stones and still use the DMT I bought over 15 years ago along with all the other DMT stones I now have. Most flat chisels and plane irons get shaped on the grinder or, if less removal is required, on the Worksharp 3K, then finished up on DMT diamond stones. "chisels, hand planes, planer and joiner blades, as well as knives and drill bits." With a wide variety of things to sharpen comes a wide variety of sharpening supplies. Glass plates and diamond stones and a grinder and a wet sharpener, etc. The great thing about forums is that you get a lot of experienced input from multiple sources in one place.Īnother Veritas MK-II user here, for many years. Too many tools, especially narrow blades, would twist in the guide, and it was just too frustrating. I had the Veritas guide before the L-N came out, and gave it away. It holds everything absolutely rock solid. I use diamond plates and an ultrafine ceramic for sharpening chisel s and plane blades. But a 50 or 75 dollar machine to occasionally sharpen a one or two dollar bit doesn't make much sense. Tossing those bits is way too pricey, and the Drill Doctor has saved me a lot of dough. ![]() I got the Drill Doctor because I use long bits in larger diameters for electrical and other work, and hit nails all too often. Tgey are pretty cheap, and they don't dull often in wood. Honestly, if it was just small diameter bits I would just replace them when the time comes. I use a Drill Doctor to sharpen drill bits. Sending them out is easier, and worth the small cost. See, for example:Ī lot i f us try to sharpen jointer and planer knives and find it's not worth the trouble. Machine planer and jointer blades are best sharpened using a jig to hold them. The Mk II is still necessary, really, to get super-edges and tiny micro-bevels, s it's more controllable than a machine in how much metal is taken. I now use the Sorby to reconfigure edges with substantial metal removal but also to final sharpen some items that I previously put into the Veritas Mk II for hand sharpening. There are jigs for turning tools, gouges and knives of various sizes though. The machine won't flatten backs easily either or planer blades. ![]() Such edges still need the wire removed from the back of the blade. I don't know what grit-measuring scheme these fall under but they're said to have the same grinding effect as a 2-micron lapping paper. This Sorby machine has been a bit of a revelation, though, in that it can put very good final edges on to tools if very fine grain belts are used such as the 3M Trizact belts, which go to about 3000 grit. I got it just to regrind lots of metal from plane blades I wanted to reconfigure - make a 25 degree bevel instead of a 40 degree bevel, for example and to re-establish primary bevels when the micro-bevels got too large to re-sharpen by hand in a reasonable time. I recently acquired a Sorby proedge belt sharpener along with various grades of sharpening "sandpaper" belts to run on it and a jig or two to hold various things. Like others, I have and like the Veritas Mk II jig-set for hand sharpening chisels and plane blades. ![]()
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